“Solutions need to be holistic and intentional, designed to alter the status quo,” says Anita Chester, head of sustainable raw materials at C&A Foundation. Her work at the corporate foundation of international retail chain C&A entails supporting initiatives and change-makers that can transform the apparel industry.
On the demand-side, C&A Foundation brings together industry stakeholders through a collective action platform called the Organic Cotton Accelerator to address integrity and transparency challenges. Members include brands such C&A, H&M, Tchibo, Inditex, Kering Group, Eileen Fisher, and KappAhl that represent around 70% of the global demand for organic cotton, Chester says.
Collaboration is key, she adds. “We use our investments strategically to catalyze the interest of others in order to create change that is bigger than what one organization can do alone.” Last month, C&A Foundation announced $1.5 million for five circular fashion initiatives.
Recently we caught up with Chester to find out what she’s seeing in the industry as apparel companies shift their raw material sourcing, particularly with cotton, and strive for more circular models.
What are the biggest challenges around material facing the apparel industry right now, especially around cotton?
Most fibers in the materials mix of the fashion industry have environmental and social impacts. Viscose is associated with deforestation and chemicals in its processing. Synthetic fibers require less water and land than cellulose fibers, but their production is based on fossil fuels and is energy intensive. In addition, these fibers are non-biodegradable and shed plastic microfibers.
A big challenge is waste. Three-quarters of all used material processed along the fashion value chain are lost in landfills. Less than 1% of all materials in clothes are recycled into new garments.
Cotton represents over 90% of the plant-based fibers in the industry and is a widely grown crop in over 80 countries. It is also a very input-intensive crop. When grown conventionally, it consumes huge amount of pesticides, herbicides, and water.
Although it doesn’t compare with input-intensive chemical farming for yields, organic cotton cultivation does have substantially lower input costs that can largely benefit farmers. But organic cotton accounts for less than 1% of the global cotton production. Its cultivation faces unique, deeply rooted challenges that prevent it from being widely adopted. These range from the lack of availability of seeds to market linkages.
However, much is being done in the industry to address these challenges and scale up organic cotton production. C&A Foundation is working with over 40,000 farmers in five countries to help them transition to organic practices.
How are apparel companies working to address these challenges?
Some businesses are focusing on the long-term and not just the next two or three years. Takeback schemes and circular fashion is on the agenda for many brands. Most companies have also set a 100% sustainable cotton goal.
C&A’s leadership in organic cotton is well established. In 2017, C&A also brought the first gold level Cradle-to-Cradle Certified products to market in stores across Europe, Brazil, and Mexico. C&A has also expanded the Cradle-to-Cradle Certified collection from ladies to include men, kids, and teens. Following its successful launch in the Netherlands, C&A rolled out the in-store take-back program to four additional retail markets: Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and a pilot in Brazil.
Ikea met their 100% sustainable cotton goals some years back, and their 2030 commitment includes designing all Ikea products with circular principles using only renewable and recycled materials.
Adidas and Parley continue to raise awareness about ocean plastic pollution. Their creative footwear solutions utilize Parley Ocean Plastic, a proprietary textile made from recycled plastic retrieved from oceans, proving that footwear companies are able to adopt sustainable manufacturing practices at scale.
What is the business case for switching to more sustainable materials?
As companies switch to more responsible sourcing practices, their motivation may not just be the short-term financial business case.
That being said, we do have good examples of a positive short-term business case where companies have invested in resource efficiency in water, energy, and chemicals. In addition to the direct financial implications, increasing emphasis is being placed on reputation and indirect benefits like a loyal customer base and better supplier relationships. These are all strong drivers.
What should apparel industry leaders consider when thinking about changing their raw materials?
In considering a shift to sustainable raw materials, brands are future-proofing their business. They need to be mindful of that and not accelerate a race to the bottom by chasing price and short-term margins.
Consumptive behavior is largely fueled by affordable fast fashion, and yet leaders have shown that innovative business models like Mud Jeans, where fashion is leased, can also work without depleting finite resources.
The North Face Renewed, which just launched in June, is a collection of products sourced from returns or defective items, cleaned and repaired to the quality of a new piece of clothing, and then sold online at a discount. This is a great example of future circular business models where companies continue to earn revenue while keeping material value in the system.
Do you anticipate a major shift around raw materials happening in the apparel industry?
Change is always slow, but yes there will be a shift around raw materials that are restorative and regenerative.
Growing consumer awareness on issues of pollution and climate change have a major impact. We have seen second-hand shopping booming and an increased focus on long-lasting practical fashion. Businesses will have no choice but to speak the language of the millennial shopper and act accordingly.
